Hong Kong - A shot of tequila
I never leave my in-flight accommodation to the whim of a 'computer says no', check-in jobsworth.
That is exactly what you are doing if you don't pre-assign yourself a seat when you make your reservation. Even online check-in is too eleventh hour. Do you really want to risk being dumped in the middle row of a jumbo for 13 hours beside Nervous Norman?
'We'll be taking off soon'. 'Do you think it will be long before they reach us with the meal trolley?' 'Are you drinking red wine?'
'No. It's blood. I'm a vampire and when I finish this I'll be looking for a nearby flesh supply.'
Nervous commentators are incapable of vocal shut off.
'What movie are you watching?'
'As it's a New Moon I'm watching Interview with a Vampire.'
Sadly landing at Hong Kong is no longer the fun it was when you could almost grab the smalls from the washing lines on the approach to Kai Tak.
Chek Lap Kok airport opened in July 1998 and, at a cost of US$20bn, was the most expensive airport in the world. British architect, Sir Norman Foster designed Chek Lap Kok. It's steel and glass structure, a development of the design for Stansted, does seem to have become the basis, if not template, for all major airport terminals in recent years.
There's only one way to enter Hong Kong and that's in a green Peninsula Hotel Rolls Royce, just like Scaramanga in Bond's 'Man with the Golden Gun'. 'The Pen' isn't technically in Hong Kong. It's in Kowloon, which is part of main land China. Hong Kong is an island linked to Kowloon by three tunnels and the Star Ferry.
The advantage of being in Kowloon is that you have an uninterrupted view of one of the most famous skyscapes on the planet.
Staying at The Pen will guarantee you a high spec room but not necessarily a good view. Unless you are prepared to pay a substantial premium, your bedroom curtains will conceal a high-rise brick wall a few metres across the street, otherwise known as a 'City View'.
American Express, via their Platinum and Centurion programmes, generally offer good packages for The Peninsula, which include room upgrade, continental breakfast, a late check out and complimentary Afternoon Tea for two. Don't expect the VIP treatment when you amble up for cucumber sarnies and clotted cream scones. You'll probably have to join the queue for a table.
Forget Tiffin and cross the street to Aqua for an early evening cocktail.
Aqua is almost next door to The Peninsula, 30 floors above Kowloon, and has huge floor to sky windows. Enjoy Bladerunner-esque views of Hong Kong over a few Margaritas in 'Aqua Spirit', but I suggest you head back to the Peninsula for dinner. Whilst the position and ambience of Aqua is special, the food is not. The restaurant is divided into two sections, 'Aqua Roma', serving Italian cuisine, and 'Aqua Tokyo' which surprise, surprise offers Japanese.
Continue the spectacle by dining at Felix, the Philippe Starck designed restaurant at the top of The Peninsula. After dinner wander up to the Felix bar which is packed with expat city types in the early evening and Russian entrepreneurs much later.
Men should visit the loo where a wall of glass is all that separates male relief from the city below.
Kowloon has the Tottenham Court Road of Hong Kong, endless rows of electrical discount stores, all seemingly offering rock bottom bargains on cameras, camcorders, MP3 players and anything else that takes AA batteries. However beware, because often the models are lines that the major manufacturers never put on general release or are discontinued. Don't assume prices are good either. I've seen cameras in Kowloon at almost twice the UK price.
The endless parade of seedy bars and clubs remain but interestingly, the shopping in Kowloon has begun to move up market in recent years. Whilst some of the major fashion labels move in, a number of dodgy electronics stores are disappearing faster than a Taiwan warranty.
The quickest and cheapest way to cross the harbour to Hong Kong Island is via the Star Ferry, which takes a few minutes, costs a few cents and runs with shuttle frequency.
Should you decide to stay on the 'island', Hong Kong's other world famous hotel, the Mandarin Oriental, reopened in late 2006 after a £140m refurbishment. The rooms and suites are impressive and have the edge over the Pen. The hotel's two bars are over run with local businessmen who are locked in an ongoing of mine is bigger than yours - cigar, that is. I gave up trying to secure a table in the Captain's Bar. At least the staff in the 25th floor M Bar recognised that we were hotel residents and managed to find a perch for two at the end of the bar.
Whereas the Mandarin Oriental is a low level sprawl, the Ritz Carlton is a sleek tower. It's lobby and bar are grand, but unless you book an expensive luxury suite don't think about swinging your cat in one of their deluxe bedrooms.
Those of you who feel lonely without lots of company might wish to consider the 565 room Island Shangri-La. It's as impersonal as a hotel can be but it does have a very good restaurant.
Take the elevator to the 56th floor and look down over the atrium at the world's largest Chinese Silk painting, which drops 16 floors, before entering Petrus for lunch. Petrus has stunning views over Victoria Harbour and the clever structure of the restaurant ensures that all can enjoy an uninterrupted view. As is often the case, the lunch menu is good value and the dress requirements, more formal.
The best restaurant in Hong Kong is Caprice, at the top of the Four Season's Hotel. Chef Vincent Thierry has secured the acclaim of Caprice being 'One of the Ten Best French Restaurants in the World'. Having his 9 course 'Taste of Caprice', I wouldn't disagree. If you're looking for something special, this is it.
There are two vast shopping malls in Hong Kong Central and, of course, all the major fashion houses have stores. Try visiting one of the Joyce stores for a wide selection of labels. It may, perhaps, not be the coolest name to put over a haut couture boutique, but the range and prices are good.
If you feel inclined to put on shorts, long socks and sandals you will be perfectly at ease with the throngs of tourists queuing for The Peak Tram. The view of Hong Kong from The Peak is worth seeing but don't plan a grand day out unless you're missing Burger King and fancy a few Chinese knick-knacks for the mantelpiece back home.
Hong Kong never sleeps so to party is easy. Head to Lan Kwai Fong in Central or Lockhart Road in Wanchai and your eyes won't know which way to turn. End the night with breakfast and go to bed as the sun rises.
Most of the flights back to the UK leave Chek Lap Kok late at night, which can mean hanging around the airport for hours, particularly if you have to vacate your room at midday. The airport shopping is excellent and the First and Business Class Cathay lounges are among the best in the world. Even the BA lounges are the airline's best outside of Heathrow.
Hong Kong is not for fine wine, to be savoured over a leisurely weekend.
It is an endless slam of Tequila shots.
Sleep Well.
This article was written by The Camel. For more articles like this check out www.arsycamel.com
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